eau de parfum intense
50 ml  1.69 fl.oz


Dark wood coloured vermilion red.


NOTES: Pomegranate, Black Prune, Geranium Absolute, Oud Laos, Opoponax


” One of the truly magical aspects of perfumery is that any source of inspiration can be translated into a wearable story. Want to wear the mummy wrappings from Tutankhamun’s tomb? That can be done. Want to take part in the battle of Waterloo? I could place you right there on the battlefield. There are no boundaries. A perfumer needs to trust in one essential thing for the magic to work though, the imagination of the wearer. For without that very urge to escape, perfumery would undoubtedly be lost.

Recreating colour, as in the Vermilion wood is therefore an arduous task because instead of asking for your imagination I’m asking for your associations. Thankfully nature provides tools that could help a quest like this. Say that you would be blindfolded and placed in front of two roses. One red and one yellow. You would then be asked to identify which is red and which is yellow, most people would be able to do this quite easily. You know why? Because the colour is encoded in its scent. You may not pay attention to the colours of scent yet but believe me if you truly observe there’s a whole new world to find. Vermilion red was originally extracted from the mineral cinnabar and is one of my absolute favourite colours. Such depth, richness and majesty. Something with so much soul required me to find a raw material that would give it justice in the olfactory world, Geranium Absolute was the perfect fit.

Like a red rose on steroids, full of mystery and with a much more voluptuous body than the counterpart oil. Darkening it further with exotic balsams and oud got me closer and when I finally decided to brighten it slightly with the juice of pomegranate and buttery black prunes I felt like I was so close. All the elements were in place but something was wrong, it was just to shiny somehow when my mind was telling me it should be matt. I did finally manage to find that one material that gave me the sensation I was after but some scented secrets are only mine”. Fredrik Dalman In-House Parfumeur.

To explore the Alinea Collection from the comfort of your home, we offer the Alinea Sample Set HERE

Make a selection of five different Alinea creations that you love to try and receive a € 35 gift voucher redeemable against any 50 ml Eau de Parfum Intense flacon.

To truly experience the artisanal craftsmanship of the Alinea Collection, we welcome you to our Atelier in Amsterdam where you will be greeted by our in house-perfumer Fredrik Dalman and/or creative director Jeroen Oude Sogtoen.

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1 review for VERMILION WOOD

  1. This textured opulent scent is Fredrik’s rendering of the colour vermillion, that blood red, lacquered hue that suggests temples, Chinese courts, midnight crime scenes, smashed pomegranates, vampire lips and Rothko. Fredrik wanted to render this lascivious and provocative colour as perfume. Interestingly he told me he shifted his original idea of creating shiny olfactive mood to something more mattified.

    This was important to him, he wanted Vermillion Wood in effect to smell handled, like an heirloom object. We talked about Japanese Negoro temple lacquer where the pieces are valued more as the base layer of black lacquer begins to show through naturally the many layers of exquisitely layers of red. Fredrik mentioned Falu Rödfärg, or Falu red, a traditional dye used on the exteriors of barns and cottages. It is a very strong singular colour, originally made from copper mining tailings mixed with linseed oil and other materials. The paint is cooked, thus the iron oxide present in the tailings determining the depth and shade of red.

    I find it Vermillion Wood exceptionally beautiful on my skin, it is hard to stop inhaling my wrists and arms when I wear. I love spraying in my hands and running into my hair, then I can smell it all day as my hair moves. There are two gorgeous fruits note here, sanguineous pomegranate, oozing that strange sour-sweet mouth-watering juice and black prune, not plum, but something altogether darker, drier and chewy. Prunes have a particular blue-black aroma that mixes here with the pomegranate and a muted rosaceous geranium note to reflective effect.

    The base or ground for Vermillion Wood is Laotian oud and opoponax, perhaps my favourite resin, tied into my obsessive teen memories of reading about Alexander The Great and his passion for burning it on altars as he conquered, burned, subdued, loved and declared himself a living god. Jeroen and Fredrik have thankfully been cautious with the deployment of oud in the Alinea Collection, in fact as far I am aware Vermillion Wood is the only perfume with a dominant oud note. Fredrik revealed there is a beetroot note in this intricate composition and that makes sense as I could detect something chthonic beneath the red surface. This earthy sweet vegetal odour is barely discernible but just enough to counterpoint the oud and resin fumes.

    This was definitely a grower. I had mixed feelings at first, a wariness, but as is often the way, the things you find difficult draw you back and the more I wear Vermillion Wood the more I like the mix of dark, bloody fruits, red shadows and strange earthy woods. It takes it time to glow red, but when it does, the skin smells of narcotic lacquer and dust.

    Alex Musgrave ©TSF

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